CHAPTER XXXIV

The Strawberry Beds, St. Catherine's, Leixlip, Maynooth Castle and Obelisk

Passing out of the Phoenix Park by the Knockmaroon Gate, we enter upon the Lower Road, celebrated for its picturesque sylvan scenery. The northern bank of the river, rising abruptly from the roadside, forms a long range of sheltered slopes peculiarly adapted to the culture of strawberries, an industry identified with this place from time immemorial, from which circumstance originated the name of "The Strawberry Beds." On the opposite side of the river are gently sloping stretches of luxuriant meadow and woodland, while along the water's edge the trees droop gracefully into the water, intermingling their foliage with the rank growth of aquatic vegetation. The Strawberry Beds was a much more popular resort in former years than at the present day, and on fine Sundays in summer was visited by large numbers from the city. Cars used to ply between Carlisle (now O'Connell) Bridge and "the Beds" at 3d. a seat, and were so well patronised that it was not an infrequent sight to see a procession of these vehicles, amid blinding clouds of dust, extending the whole way from Parkgate Street to Knockmaroon. The outside cars, too, were longer in those days, and carried three passengers on each side without any undue compression - not to speak of two or three in the well. The strawberry vendors, pipers, fiddlers, and publicans reaped a rich harvest, the sounds of revelry filled the air, and when the shades of night had fallen, numerous involuntary dismounts were made from the cars on the homeward journey. About three miles from Knockmaroon, we pass, on the right, the entrance gate to Luttrellstown, now the seat of Lord Annaly, and formerly the ancestral home of the Luttrells, on account of whose performances there, and of the evil memories attaching to the place in consequence, the succeeding owners changed the name to Woodlands. A handsome wooden bridge erected by Lord Carhampton once spanned the river opposite the entrance gate, but was swept away by a flood in 1787.

Many pretty cottages are to be seen along the Lower Road, but they suffer considerably from the dust caused by the traffic in the summertime.

A short distance beyond the entrance gate to Luttrellstown are the Anna Liffey Mills, the successors of an edifice Popularly known as "The Devil's Mill," in consequence of the legend that it was erected in the course of a single night by his Satanic Majesty. We next pass a fine bridge leading into Lucan, which, however, is outside the limits of this excursion) and we keep straight ahead until an iron gate is seen in front, through which we enter the demesne of St. Catherine's. The avenue, which, for the most part is unfit for cycling, skirts the river bank for about a mile, shaded in parts by venerable trees, and at length diverges slightly towards the north as the ruins are approached. In the spring or early summer this demesne looks its best, as the numerous cherry trees are then showing their delicately tinted blossoms, while in the sheltered glades may be seen a great profusion of wild flowers, of which the most conspicuous is the wood anemone.

The first building we pass is the ruin of a chapel, evidently modem, which bears traces of renovation in parts, and whose walls, thickly overgrown with ivy, are embattled in a fantastic manner. Nothing appears to be known as to the origin of this nondescript structure.

Adjoining is the building popularly known as "Sarsfield's Stables," but which is more probably portion of the out-offices of the old manor house of St. Catherine's, purchased by Mr. La Touche in 1792, and dismantled by him to provide materials for a magnificent new mansion that was accidentally destroyed by fire in the early part of last century. This beautiful residence was furnished in such a manner that it was said to be "all that money could accomplish or art produce."

The sequestered locality of St. Catherine's is the site of an ancient priory, founded in 1219 by Warrisius de Peche for the Canons of St. Victor, and dedicated to the saint whose name forms the present designation. The endowment proving inadequate to maintain the establishment, the community in time became so poor and oppressed with debts that they were unable to support themselves, and accordingly, in 1323, they assigned all their property to St. Thomas's Abbey, Dublin, which continued in possession of the religious house of St. Catherine's until the Dissolution of the Monasteries. After the Dissolution it was granted to, and occupied as a residence by, Sir Nicholas White, Master of the Rolls in Queen Elizabeth's time. No trace whatever of the ancient building now survives, its site being probably covered by some portion of the modern residence called St. Catherine's.

Passing out through the iron gate adjoining the ruins, we emerge on a narrow roadway leading into Leixlip, first, however, turning to the right for a short distance, along a lane which here forms the county boundary, in order to visit the wells of St. Catherine's. Both these wells are protected by stone canopies; the larger, provided with a wooden door and adorned with a head of modern appearance, is used for drinking purposes, while the smaller has for generations enjoyed a reputation for curing sore eyes. It is stated that neither has ever been known to run dry.

Retracing our steps to the gate we have just left, and turning to the right, we enter a picturesque avenue, shaded by lofty trees, leading into the village of Leixlip, situated in a wooded hollow, over which the Black Castle, sentinel-like, stands on a commanding eminence at the confluence of the Liffey and the Rye Water: The village presents an appearance of faded respectability - a couple of good terraces, and a few large houses testifying to its former prosperity.

O'Keeffe, in his opera of "The Poor Soldier," says: "Though Leixlip is proud of its close shady bowers, Its clear falling waters and murmuring cascades, Its groves of fine myrtle, Its beds of sweet flowers, Its lads so well dressed and its sweet pretty maids."

It cannot be stated with certainty when the castle was built, but it is believed to date from the reign of Henry II, and to have been commenced during that period by Adam de Hereford, to whom the adjoining lands had been ceded by Strongbow. In 1317 the Bruces with their army marched from Castleknock and encamped here for four days, when, according to Camden, "they burnt part of the towne, brake down the church and spoiled it, and afterwards marched on towards the Nas" (Naas). One of the apartments in the castle is called "King John's room," from the tradition that it was occupied by that monarch during his stay in Ireland.

Towards the close of the 15th century the castle and lands of Leixlip were granted by Henry VII. to the Earl of Kildare, but in consequence of the rebellion of Silken Thomas, an Act of Parliament was passed in 1536, whereby the manor reverted to the Crown. In 1646 the Confederate forces under Generals Preston and Owen Roe O'Neill, in their march on Dublin, took up a position adjoining Leixlip, on the Liffey. Dissensions, however, arose between these commanders, and, ultimately, O'Neill, discovering or suspecting a plot against his life, erected a temporary bridge across the river here, and made his way into Meath. The projected attack on Dublin thus proved abortive, though it might have succeeded had the commanders united.

Leixlip is a Danish name (Lax-hlaup), meaning salmon leap, and this name, which is probably a translation of an older Irish one, was in turn translated into Latin by Giraldus Cambrensis and others, as Saltus Salmonis. This Latin translation was the form used in deeds and other important documents for hundreds of years afterwards, and the scribes who prepared these documents, as a rule, used the full name, Saltus Salmonis, only at the beginning, afterwards abbreviating it into "Salt Salrn," which by a further abbreviation became "Salt" simply. In this way originated the names of the Baronies of North and South Salt in the County Kildare.

The Annals of the Four Masters record that in 915 A.D. a battle took place at Ceann Fuait, said to be Confey, about a mile north of Leixlip, between the Danes, who had settled in that place, and the Leinstermen, the latter being defeated with heavy loss. There is good reason for believing that the name of Leixlip was given to the locality by this colony of Danes who had established themselves at Confey.

In order to visit the Salmon Leap and obtain a good view of Leixlip Castle, cross the bridge at the entrance to the village, and at the far side will be seen a stile beside an iron gate opening into a pathway which leads along the river bank up to the falls; this pathway is, however, almost impassable in damp weather. The upper or left hand pathway should not be taken, as it leads only to the mill. The Salmon Leap, once a considerable attraction in this neighbourhood, is sadly disfigured by the adjoining mills, and unless for the pretty pathway along the river, with its varied views of the picturesque surroundings, the place is hardly worth visiting.

Returning from the Salmon Leap and passing through the village street, on the left will be observed the Protestant parish church, a very old building, on the exterior of which are some carvings of heads, while the side walls exhibit traces of ancient windows. The appearance of the whole edifice is much enhanced by its ivy-mantled clock tower, which can be ascended if desired. This church stands on the site, and is possibly incorporated with some of the remains of an ancient priory, which was probably connected with the castle by a bridge across the Rye Water.

At the end of the village, the road turning sharply to the right, brings us into view of the Catholic Church, standing on an eminence in a picturesque position overlooking the village and river. Instead of taking the road to the right of the church, keep to the left of it by the pathway up the steep hill where the old road formerly passed, and take the road immediately to the left at the top of the hill. In about a mile farther will be seen on the right a remarkable conical-shaped building known as "The Wonderful Barn," built by one of the Conollys of Castletown, A rough pathway from the road leads up to the front, where will be observed over the entrance door a mural tablet bearing the inscription:

1743
EXECUT'D
BY JOHN GUN.

The whole structure is built with great strength and solidity, rising by a series of floors with a trap-door in the centre of each, through which the grain, &c., was hauled up by windlasses. It stands at the north-western corner of a spacious haggard, two of the remaining angles being occupied by smaller structures of similar design. The windows, which are unglazed, are triangular in shape, with oak frames, still in perfect preservation notwithstanding their exposure to the weather. A flight of 94 steps winds round the exterior to the embattled turret, 73 feet above the base, commanding an extended view of the surrounding pastoral country. A large well, with a substantially built stone-roofed structure over it, supplies the place with water.

This curious edifice, in conjunction with the adjoining buildings, was probably commenced during the severe winter of 1741-2 to give employment to the poor, and the name of Barn Hall, originally given to the entire establishment, has been adopted as the modern designation of the townland in which it stands.

About half-a-mile further, the road, by a sharp turn to the left, conducts us to the narrow old bridge, paradoxically called Newbridge, though really the oldest bridge on the Liffey. Enshrined in the cloistral shade of ancient trees, this venerable structure spans the river by a range of irregular moss-grown arches, while beneath, the waters glide softly onward, until at length they are lost in the distance amidst the luxuriant overhanging foliage. This quaint old bridge was built by John le Decer, Provost of Dublin, at his own expense, in 1308, and was only one of the many public works carried out by this eminent citizen of old Dublin.

Beside the bridge is the entrance to St. Wolstan's, so called because it contains the ruins of an ancient ecclesiastical establishment, which, according to Archdall's Monasticon Hibernicum was founded in 1202 in honour of St. Wolstan, Bishop of Worcester, for the Canons of the Order of St. Victor. The ruins now surviving consist of two arched gateways, a square tower with a spiral staircase, an arched way with Some apartments adjoining, and some ivy-clad fragments of gable walls, all carefully preserved.

In 1536, on the Suppression of the Monasteries, this establishment, with its extensive estates, was taken possession of by the Crown, the Prior, Richard Weston, being provided with a pension, quarters, rations, and firing, chargeable on the property. In 1538 John Men, of Norfolk, assumed possession of the estate under the authority of a Royal Warrant, and in 1539 was appointed Lord Chancellor. St. Wolstan's then became known as Men's Court, and Sir John Men, having died without issue, was succeeded in possession by his brother, Thomas Men, Clerk of the Hanaper. Coming down to more recent times, we find Sir Patrick Alen, an adherent of James II, raising at his own expense a body of troops for the use of that unfortunate monarch. He became a major-general in the Jacobite army, was present at the siege of Limerick, and as a result of the terms of capitulation, was allowed to retain his estates, notwithstanding his adherence to the Roman Catholic Faith. He married twice, and had a total family of forty-two children.

The fifth son of the above, Sir Luke Alen, generally known as the "Comte de St. Wolstan," spent much of his time abroad, and was the last of the family connected with the estate of St. Wolstan's. He entered the service of France in 1735 as an officer of the Irish Brigade, served as lieutenant in Dillon's regiment, which he quitted for Lally's after the Battle of Fontenoy, was adjutant of the latter, and afterwards Adjutant-General of the French army in India. He was entrusted with the storming of Fort Sacramalous, was himself the first to enter it, and was subsequently promoted to be Commander-in-Chief in India during the siege of Pondicherry, after the fall of which he returned to France with his regiment. In consequence of taking so active a part with the French in their operations against the English, his estate at St. Woistan's was forfeited to the Crown, and sold by the Court of Exchequer in 1752 to Dr. Robert Clayton, Bishop of Clogher. The male line of this ancient and distinguished family became extinct on the death of Captain Luke John Henry Alen at his residence in Dublin in 1879.

For about twenty years in the early part of the last century St. Wolstan's was a boarding school, an interesting memento of which is a well beside the river still bearing the name of "The Scholars' Well." A short distance from this well is a monument to Dr. Clayton and his wife, in the form of a large urn on a square granite pedestal, the sides of which bear inscriptions in Latin and English setting forth the purpose of the cenotaph.

The Marquis of Buckingham, when Lord Lieutenant, occupied St. Wolstan's as a summer residence from 1787 to 1790.

The return journey to town may be made either via Lucan or Ceibridge, but should it be desired to include Maynooth in this excursion it is better to return to Leixlip and proceed along the main road which rises the whole way to the Midland Railway Station of Leixlip, three-quarters of a mile from the town. From the high railway bridge and the road beyond it will be seen, on the right, the green rolling banks of the Rye Water, anciently the Owenree or King's river, across the valley of which the Royal Canal and the railway are carried by an immense aqueduct 100 feet high - said to be the largest of its kind in Ireland. This great work, which, in its original form cost over �30,000, is worthy of a visit, and may be easily reached by a pathway from the railway station of Leixlip. The remainder of the road is of little interest, running side by side with the railway and canal, and we at length enter Maynooth at a distance of 4� miles from Leixlip.

Maynooth is a clean, bright-looking town, consisting principally of one wide street, at the eastern extremity of which is the avenue leading to Carton, the Duke of Leinster's demesne, while at the western end is the Royal College of St. Patrick, established in 1795, to enable persons to enter the Catholic priesthood without going abroad for that purpose. The spire of the church attached to the College is 264 feet high - the highest in Ireland - and the cross alone, although it looks so small, is 14 feet in height. Owing to the light coloured stone of which the spire is built, it is visible at a great distance, particularly when lit up by sunshine. It can be ascended by a winding staircase, and the view well repays the trouble of the ascent. Admission may be obtained on application at the College.

The most conspicuous object in the town is Maynooth Castle, the ancient stronghold of the Geraldines, with its massive towers, walls and buttresses frowning down upon the quiet street. This castle derives a special interest from the fact that artillery was used for the first time in Ireland at its siege by Deputy Sir William Skeffington, during the rebellion of Silken Thomas in 1535. When the attack commenced, on 14th March, it was defended by one hundred men, and after having been battered for nine days by the cannon, was taken by storm, except the great keep, the defenders of which, thirty-seven in number, seeing their case hopeless, surrendered at discretion, probably expecting mercy. But their fate is best told by the Deputy himself: "Their lives [were] preserved by appointment, until they should be presented to me, your deputy, and then to be ordered as I and your council thought good. We thought it expedient to put them to execution, as an example to the others" (Carew Papers, p.65). Local tradition holds that they were hanged from the central arch of the castle.

The ruins of this interesting stronghold are kept in excellent order, and may be visited on application to the caretaker. The place where Skeffington planted his artillery is known as "the park hill," to the north of the castle.

We now proceed by the road to Celbridge, in order to visit the obelisk or "folly," as it is usually called, which is so conspicuous an object in the flat country around. Crossing the railway by the bridge adjoining the station, we take the road to Celbridge Station, indicated on a finger-post, and, at a distance of 1� miles from Maynooth, we meet, on the left, a narrow secluded lane which leads in a few hundred yards straight up to the obelisk. This curious edifice, which might well be described as an architectural nightmare, stands on the summit of a rising ground, and its lofty form, towering above the surrounding trees, is visible for nearly twenty miles around. It was erected in 1741-2, during that remarkable season known as "The hard frost," by Mrs. Conolly, widow of the Right Hon. Wm. Conolly, of Castletown, to give employment to the poor, and, like most of its contemporaries, is an ungainly nondescript structure, devoid of grace or stability. The bulk of the monument is supported by two arches, the lower of which, if closely observed, will be seen to be somewhat widened at the top from the vast superincumbent weight, and from the upper one a perceptible fissure extends upwards, while the masonry at the extreme top of the pillar appears to be in a loose and disjointed condition, possibly caused by lightning. The western side is thickly enveloped in ivy, and the keystone at the back of the lower centre arch bears the date of erection. The whole building, from base to summit, measures 139 feet.

From the interior of the eastern arch a winding staircase leads to the gallery over the centre, about fifty feet high, commanding a view of Maynooth with Carton in front, and of the whole range of the mountains at the back, but as a notice now warns visitors against approaching the building on account of its dangerous condition, it would be inadvisable to enter it. From the rear, a vista of Castletown House is obtained through the trees, which originally formed a long avenue leading up to the monument, enabling the occupants of the house to enjoy (!) a view of the structure.

The return to town had best be made by Ceibridge, Hazelhatch, the Loughtown road, Milltown, and Clondalkin, so as to afford a change from the route on the outward journey.

The authorities consulted in the preparation of this chapter are:- An article on "Leixlip and Lucan," by E. R. McC. Dix and James Mills in the Journal of the Royal Society ofAntiquaries for 1896; articles in Vol.11. of the Journal of the County Kildare Archmlogical Society, on "St. Wolstan's," by W. T. Kirkpatrick; on "Leixlip Castle," by Lord Frederick FitzGerald; and on "Castletown and Its Owners," by Lord Walter FitzGerald.

Distances from G. P. 0. - Knockmaroon, 4� miles; Lucan, 9 miles; St. Catherine's, 10� miles; Leixup, 11 miles; Maynooth, 15� miles; the Obelisk, 17 miles; back to G.P.O. via Celbridge and Clondalkin, 34 miles.

A visit to "The Wonderful Barn," which is out of the direct route, will add about 2 miles to the distance.